Beware the Whale
Is anything sadder than a bar at closing time? The clink of empty glasses, the slap of cash on tabletop, the shuffling of weightless feet across dirty floor. Bela Tarr’s “Werckmeister Harmonies” begins...
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In Search of Soup in Budapest
Whenever I think of autumn, I think of soup, and whenever I think of soup, I think of Budapest. Although it is easy to find bowls of corba in the town where I live in northeastern Turkey, it’s leves —...
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In Budapest, Marking a Red Past With Stalin and Marx
In the fall of 1989, communism crumbled in cities across Eastern Europe. Walls were destroyed. Soviet flags were burned. Statues were toppled in public squares. But in Budapest, which broke free of...
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